The next best thing to a river full of native trout is one that runs through a cave.
Alison vetoed a 24 hour bus ride from Vientiane to Hanoi (I didn’t put up much of a fight) so our next stop took us to warmer weather in southern Laos, where we’ll eventually keep going south to Cambodia and snake back up through Vietnam to complete our lengthy tour of the battlegrounds of the Indochinese wars.
We had heard about Konglor Cave from fellow travelers, namely that it was an awesome place to see but a trainwreck to get to. So obviously we decided to go there.
We’d been told that a bus company had just started a route that led all the way to the cave but also heard repeatedly from vendors selling tickets in Vientiane that this wasn’t the case, so we hopped on board anyways not really knowing where we’d get dropped off. Luckily, the bus took us all the way to Konglor village, where we exited with about 10-12 other tourists to chase after the remaining half dozen guesthouse rooms available in the village. Everyone sort of realized the math and a mad dash ensued for the remaining rooms after collecting our bags. Alison, being the champ that she is, took off in the direction of the nearest guesthouses to try and snag a room. I struck up a conversation with a local who was offering for us to stay with him for the night along with dinner and breakfast for a reasonable price. Fearing homelessness, I eagerly accepted this request unbeknownst to Alison who was running around like one of the chickens in the village trying to find a place to rest our heads!
We ended up staying with the family in the village, which was definitely our most “real culture” experience yet. We helped cook the duck skewers, drank Lao Lao whiskey, and did our best to communicate. As disappointed as we were that the kids weren’t in school (we were there on Thursday and Friday), it was cool to see how much joy they took in something as simple as tossing around empty Coca-Cola cans they had made into something resembling frisbees. Although the family had very little, they went to great lengths to help us feel comfortable, including a mosquito net for our mattress pad and providing bottled water (their water supply for literally everything came from a garbage bin behind their home).
Digs for the night
We had a nice little setup
Although we thoroughly enjoyed the homestay, our cultural exposure was mostly observatory in nature since the family spoke very little English. Our verbal interactions with their parents went something like this:
When trying to figure out how to organize our day and find a way out of the village the next day…
Us: “What time should we go to the cave tomorrow?”
Father: “7”
Us: “What time is breakfast in the morning?”
Father: “7”
Us: “What time can we get a tuk tuk to Ban Na Hin (the nearest village out of Konglor)?”
Father: “7”
Us: “Morning or afternoon?”
Father: “7”
At that point we just reached over the dinner table for more Lao Lao whiskey. Then the one-word game continued with the mother toward the end of dinner…
Mother: “[Bringing over more duck skewers and rice] Eat, eat, eat!”
Us: “Ok, ok, kup chai [thank you].”
Mother: 5 minutes later after bringing over more duck skewers and rice, “Eat, eat, eat!”
Us: “[making bloated signs toward our stomachs] Full! Full!”
Mother: “Eat, eat, eat!”
The exception to the one-word/number English vocabularies was when the father tried to get us to stay an extra night so he could take us on a hike to see “monkeys” after the cave (emulated by doing monkey sounds and pointing to the mountains), which we later found out did not exist and was likely a ploy to get us to stay and pay them for an extra night. The more Lao Lao we drank the more he brought up the monkeys.
Perhaps the most life-changing part of this experience was a newfound food obsession. Alison and I are officially in love…with sticky rice. More specifically, sticky rice with jaew, a mixture of hot peppers, fish oil, onions, garlic, and other goodness. It’s basically a dip for sticky rice. The mother introduced us to this amazing mixture and a day hasn’t gone by since we haven’t indulged.
Our awesome breakfast at the homestay, including eggs, local fish, some type of broccoli, and of course, sticky rice with jaew
Pic of sticky rice with one of the puppies running around
One of the kids cooking the fish for breakfast
Oh yeah, the cave…
So the cave was awesome and definitely worthwhile. At 7.5 km long, several hundred feet high in spots, and full of huge of stalactites and stalagmites, it was pretty spectacular. What makes it even better is that you take a boat to drive you all the way through the cave on the river that runs under it. Cave pics do not turn out too well but this gives you a taste:
Beautiful limestone formations
End of the 7.5km journey (before heading back). Our guide was old but agile
Leaving Konglor Village
Since there is nothing else in the village and it’s mostly supported by tourism, Konglor village is kind of like a frog trap – they make it easy to get in and nearly impossible to get out so you are stuck there spending more tourist dollars. We ended up taking consecutive songthaew rides of 45 min from Konglor Village to Ban Na Hin, 90 min from Ban Na Hin to the rt. 13 and rt. 8 junction, 90 min to just outside Thakhek, then tuk tuk to downtown Thakhek. The 13/8 junction to Thakhek leg probably could have been replaced by a bus ride if we waited around for something heading our direction.
If you go the cave coming from Vientiane on your way to southern Laos, we would recommend the following:
- Take the direct bus trip to Konglor Village. It will save money and a lot of hassle vs. jumping off any bus heading south at the rt. 13 junction and winging it from there.
- On the way back, there are irregular local songthaew trips from the cave entrance to Ban Na Hin. Just wait there and ask around after the cave. Ours left at noon. Similarly, there are irregular local songthaew trips from Ban Na Hin to the junction that leave from the middle of town. Once in at the junction you can pick up another songthaew or anything else heading south to get to Thakhek, Pakse, or wherever you are headed. Do the cave early as it will not be as busy and increases your chance of not being stuck in the frog trap.
- Use the headlamps they provide at the cave.
- Bring shoes you don’t mind getting wet since you will need to get out and walk in parts (might be different in wet season).
The village consisted of tobacco fields surrounded by beautiful mountains
Have you been to Konglor Cave? Do you like sticky rice, too? Am I a terrible writer? We’d love to hear from you in our comments section below.
Beaches & Backpacks 
Did the puppy eat your rice? Great story! Alison is a champ!
Aren’t you used to that type of conversation with your father? I remember the only thing out of his mouth was “Heidi klum”
Haha, very true Viki.
Keep it up. This is better than National Geographic.
Thanks!
I love your adventurous spirits! You two really know how to travel.
Your posts are wonderful to read, even though they make me jealous.
Keep ’em coming!
Thanks Deborah, we have a lot to learn. Glad you are enjoying the stories.
Excellent writing– funny and descriptive. Looking forward to reading more!
Thanks Jamie, hope all is well with you in Charlotte!
Okay I love your posts, but, right now, I am so glad I am hope in my snugly bed!
Call me old, but, yeah, okay, I’m old….
That last post was from me, Aunt Suzanne, the one about being old…Ahhh, my bed feels good…
Ha, we do miss our beds at home. Sometimes the mattresses in the guesthouses here are really boxsprings. After a few rock hard “mattresses” we are learning to always “test” the bed before staying somewhere.
Loving following along guys. Sounds awesome, but I want to hear more about this Lao Lao Whiskey…
Thanks Clay. Lao Lao is a rice whiskey, almost always imbibed neat and through either a swig of the bottle or small shot glasses. I’d put it on par with Popov, which is generous. Causes terrible hangovers.
I took your advice about always negotiating when in Bangkok. So I went to Bangkok Bistro in Hyde Park and insisted I would only pay $9.95 for the Pad Thai and they threw me out. Next time I am ordering the jaew. Terry D
This is hilarious
Do they have a Skyline Chili there?
Ha, aside from friends and family I think we miss skyline the most. Maybe I can convince my parents to bring some cans to Australia in May…
The conversation with your host family was hilarious!! Read it at 7 (no kidding) and was LOL – love the stories, adventures and I am ordering sticky rice ASAP! Be well, keep the humor up and travel safe xo
Thanks Julie!
Sticky rice is what I was raised on! Very popular among Filipinos (aka: my mom’s fam in HI). I love my rice cooker 🙂 And the jaew concoction sounds tasty!
Kehaulani, I can’t believe you’ve been hiding sticky rice from me all this time! One of our first purchases when we return is definitely going to be a rice cooker! We love it!!
We are all hanging on to every one of your words and following all your amazing adventures!! Just incredible!! The last picture reminded me of us trucking through the rice fields in indonesia. WOW!!!
Leslie, we’re super excited to go to Indonesia, hopefully making it there in May – would love to get your take on islands and which ones you’d recommend. They are so spread out and everyone has a different recommendation. Glad you’re enjoying our banter.
Hi Brian Here is some thoughts on Indo. Of course Bali is a must as I am sure everyone has said,. The mountain area there was incredible called Ubud, and then to live the glamorous life:) hit the beach area as well. In Jakarta is the Komodo dragons which is very cool but the city leaves a lot to be desired! The most amazing thing we did was a very remote island Indonesia New Guinea where we went to Wamena where tribal people live-men wear nothing but penis gourds and women grass skirts. They have very very simple guests huts to stay in there-but you are use to that!! You have to get a special permit to go in as they regulate visitors but probably the most amazing thing we have ever done or seen- a true once in a lifetime! National geographic and beyond! You will not regret the hassle to get there-rumors have it one of the Rockefellers was eaten there by the tribe but they seem to focus more on eating wild pigs now so you should be good! Papa new guinea is also suppose to be just national geographic amazing too my in laws made it there but we had to go home -you know kids waiting at home!!!!
Australia-
YOu are going to love Lizard island and the GBR-it was the highlight for all of us-the diving was too incredible for words and be sure that you do the trip to Cods Hole- they also took Michael, Abby and Jeremy to snakes pit to dive which was really special! They wanted to show Abby everything since this is her gig studying in Vet school!! Take a hike with Chris Cook (not related to captain Cook) to the top of the mountain (where Captain cook made his landing) there and also the research center, he( Chris) is awesome and you will love it and all his knowledge! And last hang out with David-he is a server/welcomer take care of you,etc and will give you all the island gossip! We told them you all were coming and remind them of our family-especially Abby they all loved her!!! Of course you know how incredible NZ is-but if you want any hiking recommendations let me know:)
Keep loving life and all your adventures-so thrilled for you guys and thrilled for us to get to follow you!
Chicago just got a sticky rice place, after reading this it has been bumped up on my restaurant list!!
Love reading all of these posts!! xx
Ahhh how amazing!! Be sure to roll the sticky rice into a little ball and then dip it into the jaew sauce (if they have it) before you eat it for a truly authentic experience! You’ll have to let us know how you like it!!
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